October 3, 2018
Ángel León: Poseidon’s rudder
They say that Ángel León sewed a compass rose onto his soul and, as thanks, Poseidon gave him a magic rudder so he would never lose his way in the world – just when he was about to: It shows the five cardinal points he must always include in his life’s work: surprise, technique, beauty, fantasy and commitment.
He comes to Reale Seguros Madrid Fusión 2019 with the almost biblical fantasy of converting sea water into salt, using the energy released in the process to cook a fish. Salt crystals forming before the eyes of a diner is a beautiful and surprising spectacle behind which study and knowledge are concealed; an extraordinary technique soon to be made public. That is the commitment: sharing his discoveries with his colleagues and, whenever possible, transforming society.
This man from Cádiz has garnered all the awards – in the form of stars – a cook of his age could dream of, but he is not tired, nor settled, nor worn out, let alone thinking of retiring. New ideas flow through his head like a school of tuna, and each season he reveals that the secrets of the sea that he succeeds in deciphering – and conveys with absolute fantasy on a plate in a restaurant – are not going to run out.
Creativity, the quest, and the avant-garde – perceived as a struggle to convert the impossible into the possible – make complete sense. Every time he sets sail, he feels these forces beating in his temples and stirring his blood. However, his eminence as a cook does not just lie in this creative talent – which has made one of the greats – but in the way he understands cooking as a tool for social transformation; something that pushes him to devote his talent, not to accumulating as much money as possible, but to defend, via his discoveries, which are about to be writ large, how the quality of life of the planet, its seas and its human beings can be improved.
By Benjamín Lana