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Junghyun Park's key syntheses

Daniel Roldán

 

The Korean chef outlines the gastronomic debates that have earned his New York restaurant, Atomix, two Michelin stars

Junghyun Park studied in his native South Korea, and then travelled to over thirty countries to train, and work before settling in New York, a decade ago. A journey that has led him to ask many interesting questions, about the things that surround him. "Through debate, we can make better decisions, and ask better questions", said Park at Madrid Fusión Alimentos de España. A stage where he was an assistant in 2012, and which he fondly recalled. "Being here is a dream come true".

Another dream come true is Atomix, the 14-seater restaurant he runs with his wife Elia, which has two Michelin stars. Park is often asked what his cuisine is. "A Korean restaurant, an American restaurant, experimental cuisine, or haute cuisine", the chef lists. "People like to put labels on things, but Atomix has no labels", he explains.

But this diversity of character is one of the keys to his house, which seeks the right balance. "One of our values is balance", he says. A goal he pursues through synthesis: tradition and innovation, the ephemeral and the enduring, Korean and global. Like the Korean sauce used on fish, which is based on soya. "This dish shows the synthesis between innovation and tradition. The answer between the two is balance", he adds. The long-term aspect lies in the three-day Korean fermentation process, similar to the Japanese koshi, which is accompanied by seasonal sprouts and fermented noodles. A balance between fast and slow. And finally, a shrimp glaze with infused vegetables, combined with products from all over the world that can be found in New York.

It is a global and Korean vision that is reflected in Hansik Lab, Park's next restaurant in Korea. "We want to preserve Korean wisdom. There are stories that are not known. But more quietly", Park argues.

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