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The chocolate alchemy of Jordi Roca and Lorenzo Turina

Miguel Lorenci

 

Two "postreros" travel to the origins of chocolate to extract new flavours with their innovative double fermentation

Like Willy Wonka, Jordi Roca and Lorenzo Turina have their own chocolate factory: Casa Cacao. Fabulous chocolate alchemists, they have mastered a product that seduces billions of people, and they want to take it to the infinite and beyond. They demonstrated this at the Pastry of Madrid Fusión Alimentos de España, where Jordi Roca, with his voice almost back to normal, and his Italian colleague, revealed some of the secrets of their sweet craft, after a journey from the origins of this precious product to the double fermentation they have created, which can take up to five days and produces unusual flavours.

"A journey from the bean to the bar", they said. Roca explained the complex production process, from the moment he receives the bean until it is presented to the customer, wrapped in the ecological bundle they make themselves from the disposable cocoa shells. "It is about finding the identity of the cocoa from its origin", said an amused Jordi, who introduced himself as "the most handsome of Can Roca". He went on to explain how each bean has a different taste. How its origin and care determine the "personality" of the product.

They explained the roasting and baking methods, which gives the classic chocolate flavour, drying, and pasteurisation. How it is ground twice to obtain the butter, also called cocoa mass or cocoa liquor, and refined to twenty microns. It is then crystallised for forty days to be re-melted and processed.

Their new process is the washed or "reverse fermentation" of cocoa with water, alcohol and acid for five days, through an incubation within the maceration with the vacuum-packed beans, which change their colour from brown to deep ruby, purple and violet. They make their bars with 68% washed and fermented chocolate, but the taste is very different from the traditional, and surprising.

Jordi Roca (1978) defines himself as a "dessert maker", because he makes desserts and not cakes. A personal interpretation of his profession. He won several awards for his work at El Celler de Can Roca, and expanded his sweet universe with the Rocambolesc ice cream parlour, which he opened with his wife, Alejandra Rivas. Now, at Casa Cacao, they are immersed in the "bean to bar".

Lorenzo Turina (1996), from Bagnolo Piemonte in Piedmont, son of cheesemakers and trained at the Chocolate Academy in Milan, began his career in the family’s ice cream parlour, La Fetta. He stayed there until he arrived in Barcelona to take charge of the organisation and production, and today he is the head chef at Casa Cacao, linked to El Celler de Can Roca.

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