Over land and over sea. Updated tradition that stems from a Burgos stew and a fish that is now to be found in the best restaurants. The Tuesday morning session at Reale Seguros Madrid Fusión 2019 took us to multiple locations, told the story of a 3-stage cheese from the Canaries and presented in Spain the second book of Peruvian cuisine edited by PromPerú.  

January 29, 2019

This morning’s workshops began with a South American accent. PromPerú, the Peruvian tourism authorities, presented the book “Perú, el gusto es nuestro”, an overview of the age-hold history of Peruvian cuisine that centres above all on the updating that has taken place over the last twelve years, since the publication of the previous book, “Perú mucho gusto”. Present were chefs Víctor Gutiérrez, Luis Arévalo, the pioneer of Japanese cuisine in Spain, and Mitsuharu Tsumura, from Maido – the best Latin American restaurant according to The 50 Best Restaurants – who claimed that sustainability and respect for biodiversity will mark the future of Peruvian and global cuisine.

They all spoke highly of their cuisine and stated that “what we have to do now is to continue adapting our diversity to the different cuisines of the countries where Peruvian restaurants are located the world over”. This will round off the Peruvian success.


The tradition of Ajo Carretero

After the various competitions held in the Multi-Purpose Hall came more talks, such as that given by Luis Alberto Simón (El Cenador, Quintanar de la Sierra, Burgos) and José Ignacio Rojo (La Galería de Quintadueñas, Burgos), on behalf of Burgos Alimenta. The two chefs have updated the typical stew of the Burgos pine forests, called Ajo Carretero, “the Burgos version of a standard stew but with a few changes”. They explained the main change: that it is made of mutton, which is eaten first, followed by the soup made from the rest of the sheep.

From this age-old recipe, “which continues to be very popular in my restaurant”, said Simon, these Burgos chefs have created variations: with the mutton cooked at low temperature, with cream of roast garlic, with pepper gnocchi, with vegetables in gelatine or with tomatoes served with agar agar roe.


The versatility of sea bream

From the land to the sea, and from mutton to fish. From Aquanaria, Enrique Valenti (Marea Alta, Barcelona) and Julián Mármol (Yugo The Bunker*, Madrid) gave a demonstration of the virtues of the gourmet product sea bass XXL, the large-size Atlantic sea bass, which Mármol describes as “a gourmet product”. “This is a sustainable product that anticipates the future of fishing at sea”, said Valentí.

Mármol produced a tartare of sea bass with a pil-pil sauce and its own collagen, and Valentí took his inspiration from Peking duck, presenting his recipe in steps and cooking even the skin, which he removed raw, then coated and fried.


Canary cheese

The last workshop of the morning in the Multi-Purpose Hall was given by the Tourism Board of Grand Canary Island. They presented a 3-stage cheese that was first made back in the 15th century and today is produced by only a small number of farmers. “This cheese says everything about the Canaries, expressing its language and ancestral sayings”, in the words of José Manuel Sosa, head of agricultural extensión in Gáldar. The cheese is cured for 1.5 to 2.5 months, is very soft – “it can almost be eaten with a spoon”, the curds are coagulated with thistle flowers, and it has an aroma of mould from the caves in which it is cured.